Medieval Figures
I was blown away by the history around every corner driving through France. In fact I had to stop stopping in the end or I would still be there months later. Endlessly fascinating buildings and cathedrals telling a myriad of religious, civic and everyday tales in their very structure. The story behind the medieval bum bearer however remains unknown. Many examples of medieval sexualised or ‘indecent’ imagery exist but their meaning is debatable: possibly warding off the devil, upending social and moral norms or maybe just humorous, although the guy above looks quite serious about pointing to his arse. Maybe it was created as a petrified no crapping sign, who knows? And while the figure snapping a branch seems more straightforward to interpret it’s difficult it may well have signifiers unknown to the 21st century observer. If you are interested in finding more about all the various medieval genitalia and buttocks on display the book Medieval Obscenities has it covered (excuse the pun).
Another medieval figure that captured my attention was rather more elegant and beautiful. The statue of Joan of Arc, inside Reims Cathedral, is 19th century but the real Joan of Arc (Jeanne d’Arc) was an historical figure and French hero of the middle ages whose role is seen as central in defeating the English during the Hundred Years’ War. The statue is a remarkable piece of art and has such a serene presence in the semi-darkness of the cavernous space. Reims cathedral itself is also incredible, as indeed as it was designed to be, leaving me awe-struck, not only by the stone carvings and stained glass but also by the knowledge that Joan of Arc, the iconic figure from my childhood, walked this same cathedral floor.
Medieval Buildings
Laon seems to be off the tourist path despite it’s majestic cathedral and beautiful fortified medieval centre. Once the medieval capital of the Carolingian kings it is a wonderful place to wander, with 12th and 13th century buildings and interesting shop fronts and historical details wherever you look, some passageways enhanced with some superb street murals.
From Laon to Reims and really to the cathedral, as that is the main reason to visit Reims. The city itself has a lot of traffic and not too much charm. I visited Dijon along the way too, an incredible mix of medieval and Renaissance (more in this post).
Troyes was next, a designated as a City of Art and History, in part due to its array of half timbered 16th century houses. La Ruelle des Chats it is said to have got its name as the roofs of the houses are so close that cats could easily walk from one side to the other. The houses are astounding, it looks like a film set and there are so many of them, some sadly in disrepair. In fact Troyes has an air of faded glory to it and seems poorer than its rich history and cultural heritage implies.
Viviers was an unplanned stop but I’m so glad I did. Another magnificent medieval town with old stone streets to wander while looking at the ancient houses, some crumbling into history. And all tourist-free in winter! If you climb up above the Cathedral of Saint-Vincent there is a wonderful view of the terracotta coloured rooftops.
Going further south was the delightful Valbonne. Built in in a grid pattern in the 16th century Valbonne hasn’t got the warren-like structure of other medieval towns and villages but it is picture postcard pretty. I spent the day on my way between Cannes and Antibes which fortunately was a Friday, a rather special market day in this upscale town, with wonderful street food and beautiful crafts for sale. Valbonne is so well preserved it looks almost new, but in a good way. The sympathetic conservation has maintained the original beauty of the buildings, with their handsomely painted doors and shutters, and wonderful cobbled streets.
Villefranche-sur-Mer, on the French Riviera, was a true medieval fishing village right on the sea. It is literally an 8 minute bus ride to central Nice yet it seems miles away in terms of its peace and true village charms. The village has several levels to it, with a rather confusing one way system and some on hairpin bends as I found out to my horror. The small Old Town is located along the waterfront and rises up the hillside. In among the narrow lanes I stumbled across the Rue Obscure. It is is a partly underground street and dates from 1260, when originally it was a military pathway for soldiers to pass through the village. Overtime it was built over and became the underground tunnel-like street today, used to house goats, donkeys, the French resistance and as a film set by Jean cocteau’s in his last film, Le Testament d’OrphÉe (1960).
