Staying in Kruja – Merlika Rooms

Being a fortified castle town on a mountain top meant that places to stay in a van in Kruja (Krujë) were limited. As the lovely Albanian family I’d met at dinner in Berat urged me to visit Krujë, their home town, I looked online and found some accommodation that was actually inside the castle walls and cheap. Not only that but a free breakfast too. On a balcony! Overlooking, or rather overlooked, by mountains! It was even better than it sounds.

I’m so glad I stayed for two nights, a magnificent breakfast in the sun on the terrace looking at the olive tree covered hills and the distant sea was just wonderful. It was also such a unique pleasure to be able wander the cobbled paths into the town, literally through the castle walls.

Krujë museums: the ‘Skanderbeg’ Museum

The national museum or more colloquially, but accurately, named Skanderbeg museum is dedicated to the story of the Albanian hero, chronicling his life, battles, achievements and death. It also proudly displays the influence of Skanderbeg across the world showing statues of him in many countries, including London (who knew!) and tales of his exploits in literature. While interesting I think maybe you do have to be Albanian to get the most from it. By far my favourite museum was a few steps away, the ethnographic museum of Krujë.

Krujë Ethnographic museum

The ethnographic museum in Kruja was just wonderful, the best I’ve seen. Based within a traditional Ottoman style house built in 1764 by Ismail Pashë Toptani as his family home, it reflects the architectural style of a wealthy family of the period. The lower rooms demonstrate the livelihoods and tools of the past, such as preparation of wool for felt making and a room with implements for processing olive oil as well as a blacksmith’s workshop and a mock up of a servants quarters, sleeping above the animals that would have been housed inside at night.

The upper rooms are those of the wealthy family, the sumptuous men’s room, a family room, Hamman and kitchen among others. It’s incredibly well-preserved, especially the men’s room and the recreations of the rooms are excellent. I was the only person visiting so having the house to myself meant I could take my time to explore all the details.

In the picture above the round windows were where the women could peer into the men’s room to see if they needed anything. They were basically behind the wall on a small platform. Architectural patriarchy. It wasn’t clear whether ‘the women’ were the wives and female family members or courtesans but whomever, the expectation was that their role was to wait on the men.

The museum also has a room displaying a range of traditional dress from different parts of Albania with some old photographs of the same style clothes being worn which was super interesting. In fact I was so absorbed I didn’t take any photos.

Krujë Bazaar

As you follow the cobbled street downwards, away from the castle and into the town you come to the old bazaar, with sellers encouraging you into their shops ‘just to look’, much like the old days I imagine. Amongst the usual tourist tat there are many lovely local handmade items as well as antiques and you can also see craftspeople working away, on a loom or carving, inside some of the shops. It’s almost an extension of the ethnographic museum.

Zgërdhesh archeological site: Albanopolis Castle

On leaving Kruja I called in at the Zgërdhesh archeological site, which is basically abandoned and difficult to find. Not only was it up numerous pot holed roads and a dirt track, once I parked up I then set of walking in the wrong direction. Luckily I met a man with two heavily-laden donkeys, loaded down with masses of wood and he gestured for me to turn round and follow him, we went companionably back down the way I’d come before he turned round and pointed to the hill with the remains of the castle perched on the top. I thanked him and set off, making my way past barking dogs, a very anxious cow (which didn’t stop lowing manically the whole time I was there) and climbed the hillside full of beautiful flowers, insects, flying cicadas and tiny birds, with everything moving and slithering as I walked past.

The ruins are claimed to be ancient Albanopolis and the oldest date from the 6th century BC but it was abandoned by the 2nd century BC. Although spreading over 8.2 hectares only part of the fortification walls and some unidentifiable ruins remain to be seen to the casual visitor, such as me. Aside from the sign to the castle there is no information and I think it is hardly visited although I really enjoyed it but then I like an ancient wall. On my way back to have lunch in the van I was pleased to see the donkeys from earlier, released from their burden and enjoying the sunshine and a well-earned graze.