{"id":866,"date":"2022-01-27T19:13:57","date_gmt":"2022-01-27T19:13:57","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/thingslostlostthings.com\/?p=866"},"modified":"2022-02-25T21:02:06","modified_gmt":"2022-02-25T21:02:06","slug":"messolonghi","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/thingslostlostthings.com\/?p=866","title":{"rendered":"Messolonghi, Western Greece."},"content":{"rendered":"\n<div class=\"wp-block-image is-style-default\"><figure class=\"aligncenter size-large is-resized\"><img data-recalc-dims=\"1\" fetchpriority=\"high\" decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/thingslostlostthings.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/01\/thumbnail-10.jpg?resize=800%2C600&#038;ssl=1\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-869\" width=\"800\" height=\"600\" srcset=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/thingslostlostthings.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/01\/thumbnail-10.jpg?resize=1024%2C768&amp;ssl=1 1024w, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/thingslostlostthings.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/01\/thumbnail-10.jpg?resize=300%2C225&amp;ssl=1 300w, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/thingslostlostthings.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/01\/thumbnail-10.jpg?resize=768%2C576&amp;ssl=1 768w, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/thingslostlostthings.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/01\/thumbnail-10.jpg?w=1080&amp;ssl=1 1080w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\" \/><figcaption>Messolonghi extraordinary vistas , lovely people.<\/figcaption><\/figure><\/div>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Built on an estuary, between two lagoons, <strong>Messolonghi<\/strong> is unique. In some ways there isn\u2019t much happening but it has a quiet drama and a remarkable history that stays with you long after you&#8217;ve left. The Kleisova lagoon spreads out across the bottom of Messolonghi, along the edge of a road that seems far too big for the town. It is breathtaking.  Flamingos, Herons and Great Egrets wade in the shallow waters under the snow capped mountains to the perpetual call of seagulls. At sunset the wide sky produces a magnificent backdrop for the range of vivid oranges and pinks, with picturesque boats in the foreground.  A Hollywood ending.   <\/p>\n\n\n\n<div class=\"wp-block-image is-style-default\"><figure class=\"aligncenter size-large\"><img data-recalc-dims=\"1\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"800\" height=\"600\" data-src=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/thingslostlostthings.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/02\/mess-boat.jpg?resize=800%2C600&#038;ssl=1\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-904 lazyload\" data-srcset=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/thingslostlostthings.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/02\/mess-boat.jpg?resize=1024%2C768&amp;ssl=1 1024w, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/thingslostlostthings.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/02\/mess-boat.jpg?resize=300%2C225&amp;ssl=1 300w, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/thingslostlostthings.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/02\/mess-boat.jpg?resize=768%2C576&amp;ssl=1 768w, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/thingslostlostthings.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/02\/mess-boat.jpg?w=1080&amp;ssl=1 1080w\" data-sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\" src=\"data:image\/svg+xml;base64,PHN2ZyB3aWR0aD0iMSIgaGVpZ2h0PSIxIiB4bWxucz0iaHR0cDovL3d3dy53My5vcmcvMjAwMC9zdmciPjwvc3ZnPg==\" style=\"--smush-placeholder-width: 800px; --smush-placeholder-aspect-ratio: 800\/600;\" \/><figcaption>Boats at the Lagoon on the edge of town<\/figcaption><\/figure><\/div>\n\n\n\n<div class=\"wp-block-image is-style-default\"><figure class=\"aligncenter size-large\"><img data-recalc-dims=\"1\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"800\" height=\"600\" data-src=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/thingslostlostthings.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/02\/boat-2-messolonghi.jpg?resize=800%2C600&#038;ssl=1\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-912 lazyload\" data-srcset=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/thingslostlostthings.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/02\/boat-2-messolonghi.jpg?resize=1024%2C768&amp;ssl=1 1024w, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/thingslostlostthings.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/02\/boat-2-messolonghi.jpg?resize=300%2C225&amp;ssl=1 300w, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/thingslostlostthings.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/02\/boat-2-messolonghi.jpg?resize=768%2C576&amp;ssl=1 768w, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/thingslostlostthings.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/02\/boat-2-messolonghi.jpg?w=1080&amp;ssl=1 1080w\" data-sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\" src=\"data:image\/svg+xml;base64,PHN2ZyB3aWR0aD0iMSIgaGVpZ2h0PSIxIiB4bWxucz0iaHR0cDovL3d3dy53My5vcmcvMjAwMC9zdmciPjwvc3ZnPg==\" style=\"--smush-placeholder-width: 800px; --smush-placeholder-aspect-ratio: 800\/600;\" \/><\/figure><\/div>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">I came to Messolonghi for the history but as the weather forecast warned of extremely low temperatures, (-8 at night and -3 in the day) I decided to get a room for several nights to escape the cold, do my washing, have wifi and electricity and not use up all my wood.  The heating was air conditioning and, like all Greek AC heating in my experience pretty inadequate, so I ended up in a warm bedroom whilst nipping into a freezing bathroom and kitchen.  It was great though, with a large balcony and washing line (although I still don&#8217;t understand how washing dries at these temperatures). On the second day all the pipes had frozen and there was no water. The landlady very sweetly said it would be back on by 11 when the sun would warm everything and &#8216;did I want eggs for breakfast?'(all done through google translate). She had already given me a full dinner when I arrived and even though I thanked her and said I was fine there was a knock at the door at lunchtime and she appeared with another full dinner and a lovely salad, so kind! Despite the cold I explored the town, museums and local area, starting with a visit to the <a href=\"https:\/\/www.discovermessolonghi.com\/garden-of-heroes\">Garden of Heroes<\/a>. This memorial garden was used as a cemetery during the years of the siege (1822-1826) and has statues to a number of Greek notables but the key and most poignant memorial is the Tomb of Heroes, a central burial monument, created in 1838 in which lies the relics of the doomed fighters of the third seige.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<div class=\"wp-block-image is-style-default\"><figure class=\"aligncenter size-large\"><img data-recalc-dims=\"1\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"800\" height=\"600\" data-src=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/thingslostlostthings.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/02\/mess-chapel-opp-GoH.jpg?resize=800%2C600&#038;ssl=1\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-908 lazyload\" data-srcset=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/thingslostlostthings.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/02\/mess-chapel-opp-GoH.jpg?resize=1024%2C768&amp;ssl=1 1024w, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/thingslostlostthings.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/02\/mess-chapel-opp-GoH.jpg?resize=300%2C225&amp;ssl=1 300w, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/thingslostlostthings.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/02\/mess-chapel-opp-GoH.jpg?resize=768%2C576&amp;ssl=1 768w, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/thingslostlostthings.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/02\/mess-chapel-opp-GoH.jpg?w=1080&amp;ssl=1 1080w\" data-sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\" src=\"data:image\/svg+xml;base64,PHN2ZyB3aWR0aD0iMSIgaGVpZ2h0PSIxIiB4bWxucz0iaHR0cDovL3d3dy53My5vcmcvMjAwMC9zdmciPjwvc3ZnPg==\" style=\"--smush-placeholder-width: 800px; --smush-placeholder-aspect-ratio: 800\/600;\" \/><figcaption>Chapel by the Garden of Heroes<\/figcaption><\/figure><\/div>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Messolonghi had a brave and central role in the <a href=\"https:\/\/en.wikipedia.org\/wiki\/Greek_War_of_Independence\">Greek war of Independence <\/a>(1821-1829). The people of Messolonghi had successfully seen off the Ottomans twice prior to the third siege which lasted a year (25<sup>th<\/sup> April 1825 to April 10<sup>th<\/sup>, 1826). By the end everything alive in the town had been eaten, cats, dogs and donkeys, and the inhabitants were dying of starvation trying to survive on seaweed. The leaders decided to attempt an escape for all those who were able, with the sick and dying left in houses full of gunpowder to blow themselves up when the Ottomans invaded. &nbsp;It was a valiant but ill-fated attempt, with only a 1000 of the 8000 inhabitants making it to safety, the rest suffered the usual horrors of war, raped and slaughtered en-masse, with others sold into slavery. Although going down in Greek history as a noble sacrifice it seems the people were let down by Karaiskakis not being where he said he\u2019d be with his troops, the Ottomans knowing about the plan from defectors and mass confusion on the night. However, while a military and humanitarian disaster, the terrible events stirred sympathy in western Europe leading to consequent military intervention by Great Britain, Russia and France, notably at the Battle of Navarino, which destroyed the Ottoman navy, aiding the triumph of Greek independence. &nbsp;<\/p>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-gallery has-nested-images columns-default is-cropped wp-block-gallery-1 is-layout-flex wp-block-gallery-is-layout-flex\">\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large is-style-default\"><img data-recalc-dims=\"1\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"768\" height=\"1024\" data-id=\"910\" data-src=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/thingslostlostthings.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/02\/byron-2.jpg?resize=768%2C1024&#038;ssl=1\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-910 lazyload\" data-srcset=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/thingslostlostthings.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/02\/byron-2.jpg?resize=768%2C1024&amp;ssl=1 768w, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/thingslostlostthings.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/02\/byron-2.jpg?resize=225%2C300&amp;ssl=1 225w, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/thingslostlostthings.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/02\/byron-2.jpg?w=1080&amp;ssl=1 1080w\" data-sizes=\"(max-width: 768px) 100vw, 768px\" src=\"data:image\/svg+xml;base64,PHN2ZyB3aWR0aD0iMSIgaGVpZ2h0PSIxIiB4bWxucz0iaHR0cDovL3d3dy53My5vcmcvMjAwMC9zdmciPjwvc3ZnPg==\" style=\"--smush-placeholder-width: 768px; --smush-placeholder-aspect-ratio: 768\/1024;\" \/><figcaption>Romantic Print of Byron in Missolonghi at the Art &amp; History museum<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large is-style-default\"><img data-recalc-dims=\"1\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"768\" height=\"1024\" data-id=\"909\" data-src=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/thingslostlostthings.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/02\/byron-messolonghi.jpg?resize=768%2C1024&#038;ssl=1\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-909 lazyload\" data-srcset=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/thingslostlostthings.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/02\/byron-messolonghi.jpg?resize=768%2C1024&amp;ssl=1 768w, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/thingslostlostthings.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/02\/byron-messolonghi.jpg?resize=225%2C300&amp;ssl=1 225w, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/thingslostlostthings.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/02\/byron-messolonghi.jpg?w=1080&amp;ssl=1 1080w\" data-sizes=\"(max-width: 768px) 100vw, 768px\" src=\"data:image\/svg+xml;base64,PHN2ZyB3aWR0aD0iMSIgaGVpZ2h0PSIxIiB4bWxucz0iaHR0cDovL3d3dy53My5vcmcvMjAwMC9zdmciPjwvc3ZnPg==\" style=\"--smush-placeholder-width: 768px; --smush-placeholder-aspect-ratio: 768\/1024;\" \/><figcaption>Byron&#8217;s statue at the Garden of Heroes<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/figure>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">The third siege is well documented in the quaint <a href=\"http:\/\/odysseus.culture.gr\/h\/1\/eh151.jsp?obj_id=3474\">art and history museum of Messolonghi<\/a> which displays its prints of notable paintings with dignity, the originals residing in more prestigious museums. The museum focuses on Lord Byron\u2019s role in the fight for Greek independence and is clearly proud of their association with Byron, who died of fever in the town in 1824 and whose heart is buried under the marble statue of him in the <a href=\"http:\/\/visitmes.gr\/en\/what-to-see\/historic-places-museums\/the-garden-of-heroes.html\">Garden of Heroes <\/a>. His sexual &#8216;transgressions&#8217; (numerous affairs with both sexes, including with his half-sister, who bore his child) meant that Westminster cathedral refused to bury his embalmed body when returned by the Greeks, but this part of his past is swept aside in Messolonghi.  Byron memorabilia and numerous portraits of him, some sporting full Greek clothing (no uneasiness with cultural appropriation in the 19<sup>th<\/sup> century), are proudly exhibited. More recently, if you call the 1980s recent, are the associations between Gedling council in Nottinghamshire, the site of Byron\u2019s ancestral home, Newstead Abbey <a id=\"_ftnref1\" href=\"#_ftn1\">[1]<\/a> and Messolonghi town. The faded 1989 photograph of Gedling&#8217;s ugly civic hall, displayed on the museum wall, tugged at my heart strings. Next to it is a written agreement between the councils about the exchange of information and visits and I\u2019m determined to see if this is still honoured when I visit Nottinghamshire.  At the top of the stairs of the museum, observed by large paintings of moustachioed Greek heroes as you go up, is an account of a more successful local resistance in which a handful of Greek men and 2 women fought with guns and a clever defence \u2013 sticks placed under the water to sink the invaders boats \u2013 from dusk till dawn seeing off many times their number. A real David and Goliath story which took place 3 weeks before the third siege of Messolonghi and as such is overshadowed by history. Unfortunately the photo I took didn\u2019t come out so I don\u2019t know the name of it sadly.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-gallery has-nested-images columns-default is-cropped wp-block-gallery-2 is-layout-flex wp-block-gallery-is-layout-flex\">\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large is-style-default\"><img data-recalc-dims=\"1\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"800\" height=\"450\" data-id=\"914\" data-src=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/thingslostlostthings.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/02\/gedling-civic-centre.jpg?resize=800%2C450&#038;ssl=1\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-914 lazyload\" data-srcset=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/thingslostlostthings.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/02\/gedling-civic-centre.jpg?resize=1024%2C576&amp;ssl=1 1024w, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/thingslostlostthings.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/02\/gedling-civic-centre.jpg?resize=300%2C169&amp;ssl=1 300w, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/thingslostlostthings.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/02\/gedling-civic-centre.jpg?resize=768%2C432&amp;ssl=1 768w, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/thingslostlostthings.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/02\/gedling-civic-centre.jpg?w=1080&amp;ssl=1 1080w\" data-sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\" src=\"data:image\/svg+xml;base64,PHN2ZyB3aWR0aD0iMSIgaGVpZ2h0PSIxIiB4bWxucz0iaHR0cDovL3d3dy53My5vcmcvMjAwMC9zdmciPjwvc3ZnPg==\" style=\"--smush-placeholder-width: 800px; --smush-placeholder-aspect-ratio: 800\/450;\" \/><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large is-style-default\"><img data-recalc-dims=\"1\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"576\" height=\"1024\" data-id=\"913\" data-src=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/thingslostlostthings.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/02\/protocol-of-brotherhood-messolonghi-gedling.jpg?resize=576%2C1024&#038;ssl=1\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-913 lazyload\" data-srcset=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/thingslostlostthings.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/02\/protocol-of-brotherhood-messolonghi-gedling.jpg?resize=576%2C1024&amp;ssl=1 576w, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/thingslostlostthings.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/02\/protocol-of-brotherhood-messolonghi-gedling.jpg?resize=169%2C300&amp;ssl=1 169w, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/thingslostlostthings.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/02\/protocol-of-brotherhood-messolonghi-gedling.jpg?resize=768%2C1365&amp;ssl=1 768w, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/thingslostlostthings.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/02\/protocol-of-brotherhood-messolonghi-gedling.jpg?resize=864%2C1536&amp;ssl=1 864w, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/thingslostlostthings.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/02\/protocol-of-brotherhood-messolonghi-gedling.jpg?w=1080&amp;ssl=1 1080w\" data-sizes=\"(max-width: 576px) 100vw, 576px\" src=\"data:image\/svg+xml;base64,PHN2ZyB3aWR0aD0iMSIgaGVpZ2h0PSIxIiB4bWxucz0iaHR0cDovL3d3dy53My5vcmcvMjAwMC9zdmciPjwvc3ZnPg==\" style=\"--smush-placeholder-width: 576px; --smush-placeholder-aspect-ratio: 576\/1024;\" \/><\/figure>\n<figcaption class=\"blocks-gallery-caption\">Gedling (Nottinghamshire) and Messolonghi<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Ten minutes walk up the road from my apartment were the <a href=\"http:\/\/visitmes.gr\/en\/what-to-see\/ancient-sights\/roman-%E2%80%9Cthermae%E2%80%9D-or-baths-at-agios-thomas.html\">Roman thermal baths<\/a>.  It was a small but nevertheless impressive site, largely destroyed by an earthquake in antiquity. The bath complex offers a real insight into the Romans bathing rituals, with a large rectangular pool for the cold bath (Frigidarium) with its plaster walls and colored marble slabs at the bottom it looked very much like a modern swimming pool. There is also a central space with four built-cylindrical tubs (alvei) and a lukewarm bath (tepidarium). Worth a look for 2 euros.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<hr class=\"wp-block-separator\"\/>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-gallery has-nested-images columns-default is-cropped wp-block-gallery-3 is-layout-flex wp-block-gallery-is-layout-flex\">\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large is-style-default\"><img data-recalc-dims=\"1\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"768\" height=\"1024\" data-id=\"962\" data-src=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/thingslostlostthings.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/02\/mess-baths-3.jpg?resize=768%2C1024&#038;ssl=1\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-962 lazyload\" data-srcset=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/thingslostlostthings.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/02\/mess-baths-3.jpg?resize=768%2C1024&amp;ssl=1 768w, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/thingslostlostthings.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/02\/mess-baths-3.jpg?resize=225%2C300&amp;ssl=1 225w, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/thingslostlostthings.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/02\/mess-baths-3.jpg?w=1080&amp;ssl=1 1080w\" data-sizes=\"(max-width: 768px) 100vw, 768px\" src=\"data:image\/svg+xml;base64,PHN2ZyB3aWR0aD0iMSIgaGVpZ2h0PSIxIiB4bWxucz0iaHR0cDovL3d3dy53My5vcmcvMjAwMC9zdmciPjwvc3ZnPg==\" style=\"--smush-placeholder-width: 768px; --smush-placeholder-aspect-ratio: 768\/1024;\" \/><\/figure>\n<\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-gallery has-nested-images columns-default is-cropped wp-block-gallery-4 is-layout-flex wp-block-gallery-is-layout-flex\">\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large is-style-default\"><img data-recalc-dims=\"1\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"800\" height=\"600\" data-id=\"868\" data-src=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/thingslostlostthings.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/01\/thumbnail-9.jpg?resize=800%2C600&#038;ssl=1\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-868 lazyload\" data-srcset=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/thingslostlostthings.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/01\/thumbnail-9.jpg?resize=1024%2C768&amp;ssl=1 1024w, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/thingslostlostthings.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/01\/thumbnail-9.jpg?resize=300%2C225&amp;ssl=1 300w, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/thingslostlostthings.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/01\/thumbnail-9.jpg?resize=768%2C576&amp;ssl=1 768w, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/thingslostlostthings.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/01\/thumbnail-9.jpg?w=1080&amp;ssl=1 1080w\" data-sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\" src=\"data:image\/svg+xml;base64,PHN2ZyB3aWR0aD0iMSIgaGVpZ2h0PSIxIiB4bWxucz0iaHR0cDovL3d3dy53My5vcmcvMjAwMC9zdmciPjwvc3ZnPg==\" style=\"--smush-placeholder-width: 800px; --smush-placeholder-aspect-ratio: 800\/600;\" \/><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large is-style-default\"><img data-recalc-dims=\"1\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"768\" height=\"1024\" data-id=\"867\" data-src=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/thingslostlostthings.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/01\/thumbnail-8.jpg?resize=768%2C1024&#038;ssl=1\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-867 lazyload\" data-srcset=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/thingslostlostthings.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/01\/thumbnail-8.jpg?resize=768%2C1024&amp;ssl=1 768w, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/thingslostlostthings.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/01\/thumbnail-8.jpg?resize=225%2C300&amp;ssl=1 225w, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/thingslostlostthings.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/01\/thumbnail-8.jpg?w=1080&amp;ssl=1 1080w\" data-sizes=\"(max-width: 768px) 100vw, 768px\" src=\"data:image\/svg+xml;base64,PHN2ZyB3aWR0aD0iMSIgaGVpZ2h0PSIxIiB4bWxucz0iaHR0cDovL3d3dy53My5vcmcvMjAwMC9zdmciPjwvc3ZnPg==\" style=\"--smush-placeholder-width: 768px; --smush-placeholder-aspect-ratio: 768\/1024;\" \/><\/figure>\n<figcaption class=\"blocks-gallery-caption\">Roman Thermal Baths at Messolonghi<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">One afternoon I drove out to see the church of Panagia tis Finikias (1804), set among the salt lakes, known as the Alykes of Messolonghi. It is said that Lord Byron liked to go there and I can see its appeal to a poet. It is out on a limb but the limb is more interesting than the church itself.  Like the lagoon, the area has an unearthly presence, great stretches of flat land surrounded by rocky hills and then magnificent hills of white salt, extracted from the Mediterranean sea. Another wonderfully surreal landscape offered by Messolonghi.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-gallery has-nested-images columns-default is-cropped wp-block-gallery-5 is-layout-flex wp-block-gallery-is-layout-flex\">\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large is-style-default\"><img data-recalc-dims=\"1\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"800\" height=\"572\" data-id=\"954\" data-src=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/thingslostlostthings.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/02\/church-mess.jpg?resize=800%2C572&#038;ssl=1\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-954 lazyload\" data-srcset=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/thingslostlostthings.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/02\/church-mess.jpg?resize=1024%2C732&amp;ssl=1 1024w, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/thingslostlostthings.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/02\/church-mess.jpg?resize=300%2C214&amp;ssl=1 300w, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/thingslostlostthings.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/02\/church-mess.jpg?resize=768%2C549&amp;ssl=1 768w, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/thingslostlostthings.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/02\/church-mess.jpg?w=1080&amp;ssl=1 1080w\" data-sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\" src=\"data:image\/svg+xml;base64,PHN2ZyB3aWR0aD0iMSIgaGVpZ2h0PSIxIiB4bWxucz0iaHR0cDovL3d3dy53My5vcmcvMjAwMC9zdmciPjwvc3ZnPg==\" style=\"--smush-placeholder-width: 800px; --smush-placeholder-aspect-ratio: 800\/572;\" \/><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large is-style-default\"><img data-recalc-dims=\"1\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"800\" height=\"600\" data-id=\"871\" data-src=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/thingslostlostthings.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/01\/thumbnail-12.jpg?resize=800%2C600&#038;ssl=1\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-871 lazyload\" data-srcset=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/thingslostlostthings.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/01\/thumbnail-12.jpg?resize=1024%2C768&amp;ssl=1 1024w, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/thingslostlostthings.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/01\/thumbnail-12.jpg?resize=300%2C225&amp;ssl=1 300w, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/thingslostlostthings.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/01\/thumbnail-12.jpg?resize=768%2C576&amp;ssl=1 768w, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/thingslostlostthings.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/01\/thumbnail-12.jpg?w=1080&amp;ssl=1 1080w\" data-sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\" src=\"data:image\/svg+xml;base64,PHN2ZyB3aWR0aD0iMSIgaGVpZ2h0PSIxIiB4bWxucz0iaHR0cDovL3d3dy53My5vcmcvMjAwMC9zdmciPjwvc3ZnPg==\" style=\"--smush-placeholder-width: 800px; --smush-placeholder-aspect-ratio: 800\/600;\" \/><\/figure>\n<figcaption class=\"blocks-gallery-caption\">Visiting the Church of Panagia tis Finikias<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<div class=\"wp-block-image is-style-default\"><figure class=\"aligncenter size-large\"><img data-recalc-dims=\"1\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"800\" height=\"432\" data-src=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/thingslostlostthings.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/01\/thumbnail-11.jpg?resize=800%2C432&#038;ssl=1\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-870 lazyload\" data-srcset=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/thingslostlostthings.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/01\/thumbnail-11.jpg?resize=1024%2C553&amp;ssl=1 1024w, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/thingslostlostthings.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/01\/thumbnail-11.jpg?resize=300%2C162&amp;ssl=1 300w, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/thingslostlostthings.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/01\/thumbnail-11.jpg?resize=768%2C415&amp;ssl=1 768w, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/thingslostlostthings.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/01\/thumbnail-11.jpg?w=1080&amp;ssl=1 1080w\" data-sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\" src=\"data:image\/svg+xml;base64,PHN2ZyB3aWR0aD0iMSIgaGVpZ2h0PSIxIiB4bWxucz0iaHR0cDovL3d3dy53My5vcmcvMjAwMC9zdmciPjwvc3ZnPg==\" style=\"--smush-placeholder-width: 800px; --smush-placeholder-aspect-ratio: 800\/432;\" \/><figcaption>One of the extraordinary sites &#8211; the salt &#8216;hills&#8217; with snowy hills behind<\/figcaption><\/figure><\/div>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Tuesday is market day in town (also Saturday) and I wish I had taken some pictures &#8211; one whole stall was covered in real furs, with fox fur stoles hanging up which I&#8217;d last seen on my grandma in the 1970s. I bought some fresh veg, fruit and some well-wrapped eggs from an extremely old woman. It was a 30 minute walk into town from where I was staying, which I had done a couple of times, but as I was going to market I thought I&#8217;d drive in this time. Unfortunately, I hadn&#8217;t taken enough notice of where I&#8217;d parked so after going to the <a href=\"https:\/\/messolonghibylocals.com\/simeio\/mouseio-oikogeneias-trikoupi\/\">Trikoupi Family Museum<\/a> I aimlessly wandered with heavy bags following the sea front but still ended up in the wrong place.  Luckily it was fairly warm and sunny but I don&#8217;t think I&#8217;d ever been so glad to see my van when I eventually found it. <\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">The next time I went in I decided to walk! On my way home and trying to warm up, I went into a bar and got a Greek coffee. It was a very local bar with a group of three men at one table and two at the bar with a friendly woman serving.  One of the men struck up conversation with me in English and he introduced me to everyone.  The owner, sitting at the table, asked through my new translator if I wanted a beer so I decided to stay and warm up for a bit longer. It was a really pleasant time, with old photos of Messolonghi on days gone by adorning the wall and a comfortable convivial atmosphere.  They left before me and when I went to sort my bill found it had been paid for. More kindness! I tried to say thank you the day I left with some sweet treats from the <a href=\"https:\/\/www.facebook.com\/patisserielyros\/\">best bakery<\/a> for sweet treats I had been to in Greece. I&#8217;d had one of their wonderful cakes the night before and it was stunningly good. I hope they liked them. <\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">There was something about Messolonghi and when I left I, like Byron, left part of my heart there.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<div class=\"wp-block-image is-style-default\"><figure class=\"aligncenter size-large\"><img data-recalc-dims=\"1\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"768\" height=\"1024\" data-src=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/thingslostlostthings.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/02\/cake-mess.jpg?resize=768%2C1024&#038;ssl=1\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-957 lazyload\" data-srcset=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/thingslostlostthings.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/02\/cake-mess.jpg?resize=768%2C1024&amp;ssl=1 768w, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/thingslostlostthings.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/02\/cake-mess.jpg?resize=225%2C300&amp;ssl=1 225w, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/thingslostlostthings.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/02\/cake-mess.jpg?w=1080&amp;ssl=1 1080w\" data-sizes=\"(max-width: 768px) 100vw, 768px\" src=\"data:image\/svg+xml;base64,PHN2ZyB3aWR0aD0iMSIgaGVpZ2h0PSIxIiB4bWxucz0iaHR0cDovL3d3dy53My5vcmcvMjAwMC9zdmciPjwvc3ZnPg==\" style=\"--smush-placeholder-width: 768px; --smush-placeholder-aspect-ratio: 768\/1024;\" \/><figcaption>The most delicious sweet I have ever had, from \u039b\u03cd\u03c1\u03bf\u03c2 \u0397\u03bb\u03af\u03b1\u03c2 in Messolonghi<\/figcaption><\/figure><\/div>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-gallery has-nested-images columns-default is-cropped wp-block-gallery-6 is-layout-flex wp-block-gallery-is-layout-flex\">\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-full is-style-default\"><img data-recalc-dims=\"1\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"512\" height=\"640\" data-id=\"958\" data-src=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/thingslostlostthings.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/02\/inside-the-bakery.jpg?resize=512%2C640&#038;ssl=1\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-958 lazyload\" data-srcset=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/thingslostlostthings.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/02\/inside-the-bakery.jpg?w=512&amp;ssl=1 512w, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/thingslostlostthings.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/02\/inside-the-bakery.jpg?resize=240%2C300&amp;ssl=1 240w\" data-sizes=\"(max-width: 512px) 100vw, 512px\" src=\"data:image\/svg+xml;base64,PHN2ZyB3aWR0aD0iMSIgaGVpZ2h0PSIxIiB4bWxucz0iaHR0cDovL3d3dy53My5vcmcvMjAwMC9zdmciPjwvc3ZnPg==\" style=\"--smush-placeholder-width: 512px; --smush-placeholder-aspect-ratio: 512\/640;\" \/><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-full is-style-default\"><img data-recalc-dims=\"1\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"207\" height=\"244\" data-id=\"960\" data-src=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/thingslostlostthings.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/02\/bakery-1.jpg?resize=207%2C244&#038;ssl=1\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-960 lazyload\" src=\"data:image\/svg+xml;base64,PHN2ZyB3aWR0aD0iMSIgaGVpZ2h0PSIxIiB4bWxucz0iaHR0cDovL3d3dy53My5vcmcvMjAwMC9zdmciPjwvc3ZnPg==\" style=\"--smush-placeholder-width: 207px; --smush-placeholder-aspect-ratio: 207\/244;\" \/><\/figure>\n<figcaption class=\"blocks-gallery-caption\">The amazing \u039b\u03cd\u03c1\u03bf\u03c2 \u0397\u03bb\u03af\u03b1\u03c2 bakery,Ir. Politechniou 41, Missolonghi.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\"><a id=\"_ftn1\" href=\"#_ftnref1\">[1]<\/a> Incidentally, Byron only inherited his title and house because all four of the previous Lord Byron\u2019s children, and only grandson, predeceased him.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>Built on an estuary, between two lagoons, Messolonghi is unique. In some ways there isn\u2019t much happening but it has a quiet drama and a remarkable history that stays with you long after you&#8217;ve left. The Kleisova lagoon spreads out across the bottom of Messolonghi, along the edge of a road that seems far too [&hellip;]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":2,"featured_media":869,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_jetpack_newsletter_access":"","_jetpack_dont_email_post_to_subs":false,"_jetpack_newsletter_tier_id":0,"_jetpack_memberships_contains_paywalled_content":false,"_jetpack_memberships_contains_paid_content":false,"footnotes":""},"categories":[15],"tags":[148,143,144,23,134,147,132,131,145,146,152],"class_list":["post-866","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-travel","tag-birdlife","tag-cake","tag-garden-of-heroes","tag-greece","tag-greek-war-of-independence","tag-lagoons","tag-messolonghi","tag-missolonghi","tag-museums","tag-nottinghamshire","tag-152"],"yoast_head":"<!-- This site is optimized with the Yoast SEO plugin v28.7 - https:\/\/yoast.com\/product\/yoast-seo-wordpress\/ -->\n<title>Messolonghi, Western Greece. - Things Lost Lost Things<\/title>\n<meta name=\"robots\" content=\"index, follow, max-snippet:-1, max-image-preview:large, max-video-preview:-1\" \/>\n<link rel=\"canonical\" href=\"https:\/\/thingslostlostthings.com\/?p=866\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:locale\" content=\"en_GB\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:type\" content=\"article\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:title\" content=\"Messolonghi, Western Greece. - Things Lost Lost Things\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:description\" content=\"Built on an estuary, between two lagoons, Messolonghi is unique. In some ways there isn\u2019t much happening but it has a quiet drama and a remarkable history that stays with you long after you&#8217;ve left. The Kleisova lagoon spreads out across the bottom of Messolonghi, along the edge of a road that seems far too [&hellip;]\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:url\" content=\"https:\/\/thingslostlostthings.com\/?p=866\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:site_name\" content=\"Things Lost Lost Things\" \/>\n<meta property=\"article:published_time\" content=\"2022-01-27T19:13:57+00:00\" \/>\n<meta property=\"article:modified_time\" content=\"2022-02-25T21:02:06+00:00\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:image\" content=\"https:\/\/thingslostlostthings.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/01\/thumbnail-10.jpg\" \/>\n\t<meta property=\"og:image:width\" content=\"1080\" \/>\n\t<meta property=\"og:image:height\" content=\"810\" \/>\n\t<meta property=\"og:image:type\" content=\"image\/jpeg\" \/>\n<meta name=\"author\" content=\"Jen Miller\" \/>\n<meta name=\"twitter:card\" content=\"summary_large_image\" \/>\n<meta name=\"twitter:label1\" content=\"Written by\" \/>\n\t<meta name=\"twitter:data1\" content=\"Jen Miller\" \/>\n\t<meta name=\"twitter:label2\" content=\"Estimated reading time\" \/>\n\t<meta name=\"twitter:data2\" content=\"11 minutes\" \/>\n<script type=\"application\/ld+json\" class=\"yoast-schema-graph\">{\"@context\":\"https:\\\/\\\/schema.org\",\"@graph\":[{\"@type\":\"Article\",\"@id\":\"https:\\\/\\\/thingslostlostthings.com\\\/?p=866#article\",\"isPartOf\":{\"@id\":\"https:\\\/\\\/thingslostlostthings.com\\\/?p=866\"},\"author\":{\"name\":\"Jen Miller\",\"@id\":\"https:\\\/\\\/thingslostlostthings.com\\\/#\\\/schema\\\/person\\\/434ba9908ac46b8843e532d140cc8c41\"},\"headline\":\"Messolonghi, Western Greece.\",\"datePublished\":\"2022-01-27T19:13:57+00:00\",\"dateModified\":\"2022-02-25T21:02:06+00:00\",\"mainEntityOfPage\":{\"@id\":\"https:\\\/\\\/thingslostlostthings.com\\\/?p=866\"},\"wordCount\":1597,\"commentCount\":0,\"image\":{\"@id\":\"https:\\\/\\\/thingslostlostthings.com\\\/?p=866#primaryimage\"},\"thumbnailUrl\":\"https:\\\/\\\/i0.wp.com\\\/thingslostlostthings.com\\\/wp-content\\\/uploads\\\/2022\\\/01\\\/thumbnail-10.jpg?fit=1080%2C810&ssl=1\",\"keywords\":[\"birdlife\",\"cake\",\"Garden of heroes\",\"Greece\",\"Greek war of Independence\",\"lagoons\",\"Messolonghi\",\"missolonghi\",\"museums\",\"nottinghamshire\",\"\u039b\u03cd\u03c1\u03bf\u03c2 \u0397\u03bb\u03af\u03b1\u03c2\"],\"articleSection\":[\"Travel Stories\"],\"inLanguage\":\"en-GB\",\"potentialAction\":[{\"@type\":\"CommentAction\",\"name\":\"Comment\",\"target\":[\"https:\\\/\\\/thingslostlostthings.com\\\/?p=866#respond\"]}]},{\"@type\":\"WebPage\",\"@id\":\"https:\\\/\\\/thingslostlostthings.com\\\/?p=866\",\"url\":\"https:\\\/\\\/thingslostlostthings.com\\\/?p=866\",\"name\":\"Messolonghi, Western Greece. - 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Things Lost Lost Things","robots":{"index":"index","follow":"follow","max-snippet":"max-snippet:-1","max-image-preview":"max-image-preview:large","max-video-preview":"max-video-preview:-1"},"canonical":"https:\/\/thingslostlostthings.com\/?p=866","og_locale":"en_GB","og_type":"article","og_title":"Messolonghi, Western Greece. - Things Lost Lost Things","og_description":"Built on an estuary, between two lagoons, Messolonghi is unique. In some ways there isn\u2019t much happening but it has a quiet drama and a remarkable history that stays with you long after you&#8217;ve left. 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