Things Lost Lost Things

Park up: Podgora, Croatia

Podgora Plisivac Beach

Once a small fishing village, with its small harbour and sloping beaches, Podgora is now a package holiday seaside destination geared up for summer tourists, which means it is extra quiet in ‘winter’. I spent two days and one night here in the lovely warm sunshine, parked up next to the sea. sitting on the beach reading and walking along the promenade. Plisivac beach, right next to the harbour, is very pretty with transparent water and teaming with tiny fish.

Podgora Harbour

I had a nice coffee at a harbour cafe in the morning with this (above) as my view, bathing, like one of the nearby cats, in the warm spring sunshine.

Sunset in Podgora

Upper Podgora

Seats at Batosevo Guvno, church in background.

Podgora’s upper town was first mentioned in the 16th century and was the main area of habitation up until 1962, when a massive earthquake devastated the area. The town-centre and its people relocated to the sea front and later still tourism grounded them there. Although now re-populated with upmarket holiday villas it still has some rather lovely crumbling old houses and a grand church as well as the historic Batosevo Guvno, with the water at its centre.

According to the information sign every village had several Guvnos, or evening meeting places where people would gather and talk about their day. In Podgora the Batosevo Guvno, with its spring water at the centre, was the most important. Although only one of the four taps is left I’m glad it’s still there, not just so I could refill my water but in terms of its place in history and to remind us of a lost way of living in which life was lived more communally.